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« 1 2 (3) 4 »

Re: Disc Brake Bolt-On???
#21
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Eric Boyle
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We're talking about removing the brake drum from the hub itself, which is little more than grinding off the rivets that hold the drum on the hub and using the original hub with original bearings to support the Cadillac/Oldsmobile brake rotor. This is the way I plan on going on my '37 chassis.

Posted on: 2009/4/8 23:43
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Re: Disc Brake Bolt-On???
#22
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BigKev
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Ah.... I understand what you guys are saying now. So you would still need to fabricate a bracket to mount the caliper to, which would mount to the axle housing and hold the axle, outer seal, and axle bearing in place.

Posted on: 2009/4/9 1:07
-BigKev


1954 Packard Clipper Deluxe Touring Sedan -> Registry | Project Blog

1937 Packard 115-C Convertible Coupe -> Registry | Project Blog
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Re: Disc Brake Bolt-On???
#23
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Eric Boyle
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Hence my need for a buddy with a plasma cutter, which I finally have. I just need to know how thick the metal is the brackets are made of.

Posted on: 2009/4/9 1:08
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Re: Disc Brake Bolt-On???
#24
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Eric Boyle
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As for the rears, you can cut the backing plate to keep the bearing and seal retainer. Then put the caliper bracket on either the front side or back side of the tube flange.

Posted on: 2009/4/9 1:11
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Re: Disc Brake Bolt-On???
#25
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BigKev
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I think 1/4" or 3/8" would be plenty. After all, the backing plates are much thinner than that.

Posted on: 2009/4/9 1:11
-BigKev


1954 Packard Clipper Deluxe Touring Sedan -> Registry | Project Blog

1937 Packard 115-C Convertible Coupe -> Registry | Project Blog
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Re: Disc Brake Bolt-On???
#26
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todd jordan rayner
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the backing plates are formed which gives them alot of strength and they don't really have any load, i've had 1/4 and 3/8 deflect (twist from hard braking and rub full time) i'd either go thick material and machine it or go 1/4 but box the design so all your edges are flanged and boxed, wouldnt hurt to toss in a rib or two if you have a friend with a decent sized press(100 ton or so)

Posted on: 2009/4/9 1:41
metal shaper by trade and hobby
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Re: Disc Brake Bolt-On???
#27
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Eric Boyle
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None of the brake kits I've ever seen have any sort of ribs or reinforcement of any kind, they all look like this:

Attach file:



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Posted on: 2009/4/9 2:22
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Re: Disc Brake Bolt-On???
#28
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jreeder41
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We have done a couple different set-ups like Eric mentioned. We usually use 1/4" plate with no problems. We are currently fabbing up 4-wheel disc for a 51 Kaiser. One thing you have to keep in mind is the e-brake. We have found a caliper that works great in the rear. I plan on doing my 55 Clipper next.

Posted on: 2009/4/9 5:44
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Re: Disc Brake Bolt-On???
#29
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yesterdaysradio
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by yesterdaysradio on 2009/4/9 4:37:44

BigKev,

I am working on a 1956 Patrician. I am not familiar with the 1954 brake drums. The 56 drums are sheet metal.You have to remove the drum from the hub. Then you bolt the rotor to the back of the hub. It is necessary to make an adapter plate for the caliper. I reconditioned my hubs. All of the necessary components are available, bearing races,front and rear, and bearings. I made a setup to work on spare drums, spindles, knuckles, and steering arms that that I purchased. Tooling had to be constructed in order to machine the components accurately. The steering arm needed a slight bit of clearance.

Now I am working on the brake power booster. Keeping the brake pedal in the original position is a challenging problem, but I think that it is solved. The Electric High Power Master would do the job, but I think that a vacumn booster would look more like the 50's.

Everything is a bolt on.

In my opinion the Treadlevac is a bad brake system.

Jerry

Attach file:



jpg  (96.77 KB)
1278_49ef18fb158f7.jpg 1202X730 px

Posted on: 2009/4/9 8:00
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Re: Disc Brake Bolt-On???
#30
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Eric Boyle
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My '37 115c drums are identical in design to the '56 Patrician I had, and the two '53 Clippers I had. They should be the same design for all years and models, except the "more than 5" bolt patterns on some of the pre-war Senior cars.

Posted on: 2009/4/10 3:36
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